Kahurangi Outpost
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Central Otago 4WD Trip Account
Kahurangi National Park, Nelson. 26 May - 3
June 2005
Thursday, 26 May - Alexandra to Murchison.
On Wednesday evening I got a phone call from Richard. He must have
suspected something. "Are you ready for tomorrow?" Good grief! I had
typed into the magazine advertisement "start at 9am on May 27th at
Murchison!" I hadn't remembered the latter! Luckily I had that day
sorted out the camping gear in the garage ready to load and my clothes
were on the bed, so it didn't take me long for a rushed loading of the
truck. The local people - Richard and Valmai and his brother Jim,
neighbour Keith McStay and myself set off at 8 am for the 10.5 hour
trip, meeting up with Sam in Cromwell, and saying hello to Henri, who
stayed with Rosa because of her ill-health at Wanaka. Lunch at Ships
Cove, afternoon tea at Ray and Mary's place in Hokitika, where we were
joined by Neil, up the Buller River and on to join Trish and Don at the
cabins at Murchison by 7:30pm.
Friday, 27 May - Porika Track and Tophouse.
Ray led from Murchison via the Mangles Valley, Lake Rotorua and up
over the Porika Track. Unfortunately it was wet and foggy, so no views.
We arrived at the historic Tophouse of murders fame where we had morning
tea with scones and cake in an early Victorian setting. Then on through
the persistent rain to Collingwood, where we fuelled up for the week,
and on to Mangarakau and the Kahurangi Outpost. Quite a welcoming
luxury in this remote area.
Neville.
Saturday, 28 May - Exploring Kahurangi Area.
After overnight rain we were off, on time as usual! Off to meet up
with nearby beef farm manager. Eight vehicles in convoy wound up to the
airstrip. Wow! a fantastic view. Out came the cameras to focus on
craggy limestone outcrops, cliffs and "beefies" down on the valley
flats. Great tracts of dead manuka: believe it was killed by a
beetle. A big mulcher is clearing the area and some regrowth is
evident. Baldy Peak to the south stood out. As we neared Lake Otuhie,
on private land the nikau palms impressed us. Had to put the hubs in
and part the gorse at times as we pushed on. Don and Neil at the back
sensibly waited back. You see Neil had this unscratched shiny
truck!! OOPS!! a tricky corner and Ray in the pint-sized Lada in the
lead was O.K., but the Beebys weren't: Isuzu ended up at 40o angle.
The THINK TANK GOT THEIR HEADS TOGETHER. First towing attempt
failed. Standing up on the bank I crossed everything and closed my
eyes. Relief, relief, next tow got the truck out!! With great skill
we all turned around on this overgrown track. Most opted to walk
toward the lake to look for those goldmining relics. The abutments of a
large bridge were found by the group. Lunch spot was found: maps were
studied and then we were in 2WD to check the Anatori River ford. We'd
travelled through the farming valley we'd photographed from the
airstrip. The scenic bush track brought us to the coast. Got excited
when in the distance we sighted IT: the Kahurangi Lighthouse - the
focus of tomorrow's big trip. Dismayed at heavy seas. Anatori R sign
warned that the ford was sometimes impassable and to proceed at own
risk. Sam, in his bullet-proof Toyota tested the waters proving that
it was really easy. Perched up on the hill were modern houses. The
access was across the ford. A leisurely return to the Outpost after
calling in at Paturau River. Commented on the sign warning that Five
Paua was the limit. Back at the base two of the owners, Sue and Des
had arrived. Because Des had taken time off work to show us around, we
were mobile again. Back to Lake Otuhie, but by another route: over
private land . We passed huge limestone bluffs and listened to Des as
he gave the area's history. He also loaned us his books of the Golden
Bay area. Our off-roading took us on what was the old road but we
walked over the dilapidated old bridge bearing the sign UNSAFE. Most
chose to walk on to reach another part of Lake Otuhie. Over the evening
meal, the conversation centred on the imminent rugby game Crusaders v
Waratahs. Neil, Keith and Ray were becoming resigned to tuning in to
the radio when the phone rang. Was an invite to go and watch the rugby
on T.V. The excited three went visiting while the rest of us had the
novelty of listening to the radio. Another great day.
Valmai.
Sunday 29 - Farewell Spit Area.
Weather forecast confirmed that we should postpone the Kahurangi
Lighthouse trip - the Challenge! Usual 9am departure. In 2WD we
travelled that 22 km winding part of the narrow road around Whanganuui
Inlet. First stop was the Farewell Spit Cafe. Now you'll be
wondering - "What kind of a 4WD trip is this?" Anyway we'd always
planned to have points of interest, something for everyone: driving,
walking, photography, historical, scenic and eating. We indulged on
cappuccinos, mochaccinos and great muffins. Was the last day before
cafe closed for the winter. While lotto results were being checked on
line some of us went to the viewing annexe to see the Spit through large
binoculars. Next stop was to Wharariki Beach. A well-marked DoC track
took us over the sandhills to the West Coast. Strong wind whipped the
sand around us. Out came the cameras. Richard posed on a rock at a
cave entrance with the foam swirling around him. While awaiting that
big wave we must have looked a bit bored or maybe he was the bored one
so ... Now I'm going to go public and report that he "down troued".
Just when I was taking that incriminating shot the rogue wave hit my
trouser covered legs . Was a good laugh and that's been
the atmosphere of this whole trip. Lunch stop was on the lee side of a
farm shed before a 30 min climb (on foot) to Pillar Point - a
functioning shipping beacon. Great views to the north-western tip of
the South Island. We then met up with Keith and Neil who'd just been
to Collingwood. When they reported that nothing was open there we
bought phone cards and refuelled at the township of Pukawau. Many B &
Bs, craft, art and pottery galleries on this scenic route had closed for
the off-season. Back to the Outpost via Whanganui Inlet. With the
tide now in, this bush lined estuary looked most attractive. Saw
another white heron. Another day when the weather was much better than
the forecast. Noticeably milder temperatures at night. We met a
somewhat dirty 4WD. Great to learn that they'd no problems in their
one day trip toward the lighthouse! As well as rural mail servicing in
this remote area there were school bus signs. We've been told of a
five year old catching the bus at 7.20am and returning at 4.20pm while
neighbouring children took correspondence lessons. We found a 1.7 km
newly bulldozed track up a hill. Was access to the newly developed
Westhaven Retreat with private beaches and the ultimate, we were told,
in views. The stone entrance said PRIVATE!! so back to camp. The,
now closed for winter, Nugget Cafe and Silver Pine Gallery as well as
the Mangakarau Swamp Centre are just adjacent to the Kahurangi Outpost.
Valmai.
Monday 30 May - Off to Kahurangi Point Lighthouse.
Today's the day we attempt to cross the Big River lagoon and access the DOC hut and the lighthouse so Trip Leader (TL) said last night that we need to be away by 8am to catch the tide. That announcement was greeted by cries of "We'll have to be up by 6". Well TL did his bit by stomping around the verandah at 5.45am to make sure that we all knew he was keen to go. In fact he'd had his breakfast before most of us had abluted. The end result was that we were fed, surplus gear stored and hut tidied in time to leave at 7.30am when it was just beginning to get light. Before we'd gone very far Ray reported that the alternator in his truck was not charging and that led to a longer stop at the Sandhills Creek bridge where the problem was investigated by all who profess to know about these things, without success. In the end Ray carried on knowing that jumper leads were available in the event of a flat battery and made it through the day in the no charge mode. The Anatori River ford was treated with contempt as a result of Sam's crossing two days earlier and apart from TL leading us on a side trip to view a new house perched on the top of a rise overlooking the Tasman Sea (great view if you like looking at waves, but we couldn't put up with the wind for the two minutes we were there) we next paused at the Turimawiwi River where after crossing the ford TL said "Hang on a minute while I find the way" or similar words with the same intent. Soon it was "Come this way" so we did, and there was the beach before us with the lighthouse in the distance. Some let tyres down and some didn't and we were away on the firm sand. Great stuff. Couple of rocky outcrops to negotiate, one where we had to drive in the tip of the runout of the breakers so timing had to be right. Two of our party (no names mentioned here) initially declined to subject their trucks to any suggestion of dipping in the sea and there was some chat on the radio about how they could manage between waves. Must have worked because on they came and the word 'wimp' wasn't mentioned once. On the way two other freshwater streams were crossed without more than a pause to make sure the channel wasn't too deep. They weren't. After about six kms of the estimated 6.5 km beach run another rock outcrop had separated the party and Sam was out ahead on his own. The rest of the party were in the process of negotiating the rock when a "Help me I'm sinking" call from Sam came over the radio. He must have had a senior moment 'cos he'd driven into the Big River lagoon on his own and hadn't made it more than 8 metres before it became too deep and he couldn't reverse and eventually started to settle. Well, Ray waded in to put the rope on and TL and Neville in tandem pulled him out. What a flow of water when the doors were opened. Then the search started for the markers which define the lagoon crossing. Apparently Keith & Neil spotted some of them but those who knew the route never did find them all, probably because the lagoon didn't drain to the expected level. Well despite both TL and Ray wandering round up to their family jewels in the lagoon trying to find the route, it became apparent that the water level wasn't going down as expected. The tide appeared to be on the rise and the decision to stay or go had to be made and soon. In the end some said well we're going and by the time they'd got to the first rocks everyone was on the move. It was probably the thought of spending 24 hours (not good to attempt in the dark) in a not particularly pleasant spot that made the decision easy. Going back was easy, even the dip in the sea at the place where we'd paused on the way down and the high box was used by many as confidence grew. Everyone gave their trucks a good wash in the Turimawiwi and it was back to Mangaraku and the Kahurangi Outpost for lunch. We hadn't succeeded in our objective but we will be better prepared in terms of knowledge of the area if a next time happens.
Caio Don & Trish
Tuesday 31 - Exploring the coastline.
Today's scribe had a real excuse (head cold), so I'm putting pen to
paper again!! We've just farewelled another of the group! Here we are
- five of us, the remnants, in Neville's Toyota and Beeby's Isuzu, and
Ray's Lada, which was laid up awaiting a replacement part: - an
alternator. How's this? Courier phoned to say that it had arrived in
Invercargill (Collingwood is an Invercargill suburb) and would be
delivered via our Collingwood next day. Oh! well, we could use another
day in this wonderful area. Meantime Des had contacted another farmer
who cautiously gave us access to look for historical and scenic features
on his coastal farm. On foot we clambered down to the beach. Out
came the cameras to record such wonderful rock formations. With the
tide out we enthusiastically harvested mussels in the rock pools. On
the return trip we checked out Mangarakau Marine Reserve. We marvelled
at the use made of a deteriorated old scow, 21 x 105 ft, as a platform
for a small hut built on a concrete base. More traffic on the road
today so CB's again in use to warn of approaching traffic. A grader
was on the job widening those tight corners. Back at the Outpost the
builders, as well as Sue and Stewart, were at work. They're building
composting toilets. They've added four bank rooms to the original
building - the old Mangarakau school, to make this innovative
outpost with Kahurangi National Park at it's back door. There's
accommodation for twenty-eight. Has a great kitchen, large well-heated
social come dining room as well as showers and flush toilets. To have
lunch we stood around the stove savouring the mussels as their shells
opened in the pot. For me a time of reading from the many relevant
books, magazines, photos and maps available. Full marks to the two
couples who've taken the plunge in developing this lodge. Would be
great to return in the summer - to use the pool and tennis court. We
recommend this special lodge.
Wednesday 1st June - Whanganui Inlet to Motueka.
The alternator was delivered early afternoon. Of course the men
were all experts under the bonnet of the Lada. We were soon on the
road again: the five of us travelling to Collingwood (Nelson), Takaka,
and over the hill, motelling at Motueka. A great meal out that night.
Valmai
Thursday 2nd - to Hokitika.
We left the next morning at 8:50am, with Ray going back home to
Hokitika. We paused to examine the ill-fated Nelson railway and go
through the tunnel at Glenhope. What a waste. Down the winding Buller
Gorge - a bit different to our night trip a week ago. We left Ray at a
garage in Reefton as his truck was still not right. The remaining four
had another night in a motel at Hokitika and another meal out .
Friday 3rd - back to Central and South Otago.
We cautiously travelled over tricky black ice, my vehicle back end
wriggling several times. Richard felt it too. We were lucky to get
over the Haast Pass as it had been closed because of snow. Flashing
warning lights and notices warned that passage was only possible with
chains, but as snow ploughs and gritting had been done we proceeded
carefully, and soon met camper vans coming the other way. Jim had a bit
of a shock while photographing the Landsborough Valley (electric fence
programmed to kill cattle). What a change once we were over the Pass -
bright sunshine. We got to Alexandra late afternoon. Thanks Richard
and his helpers, Ray and Neil. It was a great week, even though we
didn't achieve a main objective, the lighthouse. Just gives us an
excuse for another trip.
Neville.
Kahurangi Outpost
email:
enquiries@kahurangioutpost.co.nz
Phone (03) 5248286
Fax (03) 5248286